Maggie in Newfoundland Again 2016: Day 21 Fogo Island

A little disaster to start the day, just to liven things up a bit! Honestly, with the life we’ve been living, if something bad didn’t soon happen we could have thought we’d died and gone to heaven! Today’s drop of misery involved a malfunction with our water heater. In the process of trying to fix it, MacGyver let loose a flood! There was a fountain in the trailer with me shouting out to him to shut it off, and the circus was on! No damage done that a couple of rolls of paper towel couldn’t handle. Given that it’s Sunday, repair parts are out of the question. So, once the water was mopped up, it was relegated to the “worry about it later” category. We shut off the water heater until Home Hardware opens in the morning and set out to enjoy the day.

We started our hiking in Deep Bay. We discovered an island graveyard – that’s the only thing on this little island just off shore – a graveyard. It dates back to 1896. The locals claim there were much earlier graves but that’s as far back as the headstone evidence suggests. The hiking trail that runs along the ridge above the little outport also leads to another of the Shorefast Foundation artist studios. This one, known as The Bridge, was unfortunately as unappealing to me as The Tower. I had talked about it yesterday with George. I was interested in a local artist’s perspective. He shared that the retreats are not overly popular with local artists. They are mostly occupied by “come-from-aways”. The location alone would discourage a painter like George. The only way to get to these studios is on foot. They are remote, and so far have included open bogs and tops of ridges. Given the weather in Newfoundland, I can just imagine George carrying his large canvasses back to one of these places. A good gust of the ever present winds and he’s off like a kite! Honestly, I really am trying to like these things!

We had plans to join George and Valerie for dinner at their little artist’s retreat, so we decided to head toward Tilting and explore as we went. We went as far as Joe Batt’s Arm when we noticed a string of dories bobbing in the cove! We completely lost ourselves in wandering, and poking, and discovering new angles for what I am sure will be an outstanding series of photos for David! Chatting with locals, pausing to admire, and excitedly shouting to one another to “come over here” to see the whole thing from a different angle, and the afternoon disappeared. Trying to get David out of there was like wrenching a kid from a beloved toy! I eventually managed but I can tell you it’s the most work I’ve done since I left home!

Arriving in Tilting is a delight. It began as a Portuguese fishing community in the 1600’s. The French soon followed but by 1752 the first settlers from Ireland arrived. It was established and remains to this day, a proud Irish community. Recognized as a National Historic Site of Canada, it is my opinion, the prettiest spot on this incredibly beautiful island! We dropped a bottle of wine with George and set out on foot to explore the area. We were assured to come back when it suited us!

Walking through town we watched Sunday afternoon life unfold for folks much as it always has here. Fishing boats were resting on slips for the day and locals chatted over fences and on porches overlooking the ocean. Everyone calls a greeting and comments on the beautiful weather and no one much minds if you’ve wandered into their yard in search of the perfect shot that will capture the essence of this beautiful place.

The Turpin Trail runs off the end of town and happens right by another of the funky studios. The Squish Studio sits on a crag over the ocean and it the first one I can say I like. Maybe because it has windows (not many, but it has them); maybe because it’s the first one we’ve seen occupied so it appears less stark and cold; maybe it’s because I stood between it and the oldest Irish Catholic cemetery outside of Ireland and the contrast of old and funky new is striking; maybe it’s because I am just so darned happy to be here…but whatever the reason, I like this one! The trail that leads out from here is again coastal but the rock here is very different. Very black and appearing far less ‘rough’ than many of the other sections of coastline, it is no more or less beautiful, just different.

We made our way back to George’s back kitchen studio to admire the beautiful work he has done in his time here as artist in residence in Tilting. His paintings beautifully capture the remote landscape and his love of Newfoundland is captured in the brushstrokes. The Jennifer Keefe House, built in the 1800’s has been beautifully restored. Probably not a great spot for our 6 foot+ sons, as the ceilings are only 6 feet high. The architectural features combine to a marvellous effect though and the house was a charming and cozy place to enjoy sharing wine (maybe too much of that!), a delicious meal and conversation and laughter. We shared memories, as families do, and stories of our lives, as families who have lived apart for years must do! It would be tough to pick a highlight of the day, but if pressed I think I would have to say it was that moment in the kitchen. Sitting at the table, bellies full, as the day fades just outside the window. In the age old tradition of Newfoundlanders, George entertained us with recitations. We sat at the table, eyes closed to best savor the moment, and drank in the words of Yates, Dylan Thomas, oh the absolute joy of the moment!